No matter how slow people can feel, the number of fast fashion stores around them is decreasing. In the retail industry, both opening and closing are “daily work”, but the withdrawal of fast fashion has become a consensus in China’s commercial real estate industry in recent years: since 2017, Forever 21, new look, Old Navy, ESPRIT, Earth Music & Ecology and other brands have announced their withdrawal from the Chinese market. INDITEX, the parent group of Zara, announced the closure of 1200 stores in the world in June this year, which is regarded as the most powerful evidence of the decline of global fast fashion brands, let alone the 2345. < / P > < p > before announcing the closure, INDITEX group had more than 7400 stores around the world. All the stores of its brands were of standard style: uniform style, bright lighting, new products of the season were crowded in one store, and clothes on the hanger would be changed according to the sales data. On October 15, Zara’s New Asia flagship store opened in Wangfujing Street, Beijing. Unlike the usual store in the shopping center, the flagship store is a single building, with four floors and an area of more than 3500 square meters. Originally opened here is the flagship store of Chinese men’s wear brand Hailan home. < / P > < p > the new flagship store has several distinctive features: green plants and flowers are everywhere, there are 8 large curved LED screens, there are independent experience areas for men’s and women’s wear, shoe bags and other products, and a new design has been made for the cash register. In this big four story shop, there are fast payment areas on each floor and several face charging devices, which make the payment process faster for customers – in short, it is totally different from the previous stores. < / P > < p > large flagship stores are often the performance of a brand’s “muscle show”, and they also hope to impress consumers with new elements. However, Zara is facing a more dramatic change in the Chinese market: < / P > < p > consumer demand has become increasingly personalized and vertical. Zara and H & M, which used to be located in the golden spot on the first floor, were replaced by sports fashion brand and light luxury brand after the lease expired; < / P > < p > the arrival of the epidemic situation strongly promoted the rise of new sales channels: the change of e-commerce direct broadcasting channel has reverse impact on the manufacturing end, supply chain and even the company’s operation mode; < / P > < p > on the supply chain side, digital transformation is continuing A large number of enterprises want to take a share of the whole supply chain, from surface accessories to garment manufacturing, and then to the complete flexible fast reaction supply chain. It is difficult for us to determine whether Zara will gradually fade out or turn over in the future of China’s market, but it can be clear that in the rapidly changing market, it is difficult for China’s fast fashion industry to have a monopolistic and dominant brand with absolute discourse power and bargaining power. < / P > < p > this is not good news for many brands that have tried to imitate Zara. Lashabel, formerly known as “China’s version of Zara”, has been expanding its losses since 2018: in the first half of 2020, it realized 1.43 billion yuan of revenue, a year-on-year decrease of 63.80%, and a net loss of 707 million yuan, an increase of 41.97% over the same period of last year. According to statistics, since this year, rachabel has been executed 63 times, and in October alone, the number of times he has become a person subjected to execution is as high as 18 times. < / P > < p > one is the magic of fast fashion mode itself, which is fast, versatile and fashionable. The new fashion on Fashion Week show will appear in fast fashion stores in two weeks. The price of this kind of speed may be not good quality and design sense, but its price is close to the people and can provide consumers with the feeling of “fashion democratization”; the second is the mutual achievement of fast fashion brands and shopping centers: when fast fashion brands enter China, shopping malls are often keen on using fast fashion to attract customers. Zara, H & M and even UNIQLO are new shopping malls in attracting investment In a shopping mall, fast fashion brands are often crowded. However, by 2020, speed is no longer the advantage of fast fashion brands such as Zara. Women’s clothing stores on Taobao can be found everywhere faster than Zara. < / P > < p > take chenfan, the head brand group of women’s clothing of Taoxi department, as an example. According to the data provided by chenfan, the company’s Gmv in 2019 is 3.3 billion, ranking third in the Gmv ranking of women’s clothing of Amoy (tmall + Taobao), behind the group of Ling Zhi and UNIQLO. Chen Fan’s current business mainly has two: independent brand and MCN, in addition to Sydney such a well-known head of red people, its contract incubation in more than 200 red people. < / P > < p > the ability of Taoxi brand to compete with fast fashion giants is not inferior to its supply chain capability. Mrs. Qian Yufan, the co-founder of chenfan, said in an interview with Huxiang that at present, chenfan has more than 1000 cooperative factories at the end of the supply chain, and it is extremely subdivided: there are knitting factories, weaving factories and so on. The whole production cycle from placing an order to shipping is very short. For T-shirts, it may only take 4-7 days, and the duration of category involving special fabrics (such as double-sided overcoat) will be longer. < / P > < p > in addition to the “fast” of the production process itself, the relationship between Taobao red women’s clothing stores and consumers is closer and closer than that of traditional fast fashion brands. Thanks to the special attribute of “Hongren store”, Taobao stores can estimate orders more accurately and reduce inventory. < p > < p > for example, before the launch of the new year, Sydney will publish a “grass planting notice” through its microblog. The common copy of the notice is “which comment do you like? Let me know”, and then put it on the Taobao link and start selling. The whole process is highly data-based: the interactive data of social media, the point praise and collection ratio on the Taoxi platform can help the brand estimate the first order quantity of different styles, so that the goods prepared since then will be “less risky” and will not cause serious inventory, and the remaining part of the return order is “production according to sales”. At present, there are only 53 days in stock. Mrs. Qian believes that at the end of the supply chain, chen fan’s ability is not only the ability to coordinate orders, but also to customize and design the demands of her own consumers and provide them to the supply chain in reverse. At the end of the flow, its red man matrix has multiple channels to communicate with consumers (microblog, xiaohongshu, etc.), so as to have two-way communication with consumers—— It can not only sense their needs in time, but also influence fans’ consumption choices with their own aesthetic opinions. The “small order quick response” mode of “small batch, multi style and multi batch” is derived from this. In this mode, the new trend of consumer information will be first “intercepted” by e-commerce channels, and products will be quickly launched to test the market reaction, and no more batch can be changed. < / P > < p > this faster pace of “market trial and error” also disrupts the update rhythm of zaras who are highly dependent on offline stores. Not to mention, in today’s commercial real estate environment, standardized, long-term unchanged store form is gradually losing its appeal. < / P > < p > a senior commercial real estate practitioner told huwen that the consumption experience provided by traditional fast fashion offline stores is relatively static, while the most popular stores in shopping centers are more personalized experiential formats, such as concept flash stores and new retail stores with higher digital level. < / P > < p > business always likes the new and dislikes the old. When the best position of Zara and H & m with low price in the past can not produce higher business efficiency, it is inevitable to change into a new brand. In terms of offline stores, the newly opened Asian flagship store provides a completely different shopping experience from the traditional Zara stores. The clothes are no longer crowded together, the experience and display space become larger, and the technology elements such as self checkout and interactive large screen become more and more; < / P > < p > in online sales, INDITEX group announced in June this year that it will invest 1 billion euro to expand online e-commerce The company has invested 1.7 billion euro to upgrade its offline stores, hoping to reach the goal of 25% of total revenue by 2022, which was 14% last year. < / P > < p > to optimize offline stores and pour resources into online e-commerce business, Zara’s transformation may be a little slow now, but it is good that it is strong enough. Leng Yun, a fashion business consultant and columnist, believes that Zara’s strength lies in the fact that while maintaining speed, it can also maintain a very wide SKU width (more than 20000 new products are put on the shelves every year) and the depth of its products, that is, each SKU has to sell tens of thousands to hundreds of thousands of pieces every year, and at the same time ensure a high degree of sold out. This means that Zara’s commodity efficiency is very high. < / P > < p > in addition, Zara’s digital efforts did not begin today. Lengyun said to huwen that in the “pre-e-commerce era”, Zara’s efforts in it system, database construction, software and hardware investment were far more than that of most garment enterprises. < / P > < p > to this day, it is still one of the most successful clothing retailers in the world – only, why is it difficult to copy this model in China? < / P > < p > China’s clothing consumer market is in a stage of dramatic changes. Maybe girls used to favor Zara’s fashion and speed, but now they have turned to pursue a niche brand that is more unique and more self-expression. < p > < p > Zhou Dong, co-founder of clothing IP incubator and clothing supply chain platform light chain, believes that if after the reform and opening up, Chinese people have few choices to buy clothes and value “functionality” (warmth preservation, skin friendly, etc.), then they have entered the “clothing consumption 2.0 era” since the 1990s. People began to buy brands, logo, Nike, Adidas and later supr EME can be classified into this category. < / P > < p > “now, it’s the 3.0 era. Everyone is expressing consumption, focusing on quality and cost performance,” said Zhou Dong. “Now the new trend is: de branding.” Leng Yun also expressed a similar point of view, “a certain trend is” diversification “. The brand style will eventually be more diversified, the monopoly and hegemony brands will be reduced, and the number of niche brands will be more.” < p > < p > clothing is a high-frequency, non-standard consumer market. “It’s not until the season change that girls need to buy new clothes,” says Qian Yufan. “Because of such consumption psychology, you don’t even know where the saturation point of consumers is. She may need more beautiful clothes endlessly.” < / P > < p > “there are too many competitors for Zara,” a Zara fan told Hu. She started buying Zara since she went to university, and she still keeps buying once a month four or five years after graduation. She still likes the convenience of Zara, which can be bought at any time when shopping, and the price is not “painful”. However, the sense of fashion that Zara initially provided to her is becoming more and more easy to replace. “I also buy Taobao stores with tens of yuan and shopkeepers with thousands of yuan. Most of Zara’s clothes that I bought before have been eliminated, and a few of them can still be worn together.” Mrs. Qian also believes that different from the consumption of skin care products, the consumption characteristics of clothing categories (especially women’s wear) determine that the competition between brands often goes beyond the price. < / P > < p > consumers often choose skin care products at a relatively fixed price band: if they are used to using a lady brand with thousands of yuan, it is difficult to choose a very cheap open shelf product. But buy one or two hundred

By ibmwl